“Sherpa Mike” Meets a Snowy Owl

January 23rd, 2012
Beautiful but Deadly: A Snowy Owl at Old Mission Point

Beautiful but Deadly: A Snowy Owl at Old Mission Point

By MIKE NORTON

OK, the muscles are a little sore this morning. And I’m not sure if that’s from snowshoeing the Empire Bluff Trail on Friday afternoon with a five-year-old on my shoulders, or from skiing the big loop above Old Mission Point on Saturday. All I can say is that winter is definitely fun this year!

The five-year-old wasn’t mine, by the way. She’s the daughter of Wisconsin travel writer Julie Furst Henning, who writes for Road Trips for Families, and who was in Traverse City this weekend with her mom and two of her three youngsters, Owen and Marie. Eager to show them the wonders of the Sleeping Bear Dunes in winter, I took the four of them on a showshoe hike to the Empire Bluffs, forgetting how quickly a kid can get tired trying to navigate deep snow.

My goal was to get Julie out to the lookout at the end of the trail where you can see the big dune to the north and the huge mass of South Manitou Island floating several miles offshore. She may be a Wisconsinite now, but Julie grew up in Michigan, and is descended from the Fursts who were lighthouse keepers on the Manitou Islands several generations ago. Mission accomplished…

Giving Marie a ride on my shoulders was a great blast from the past. My own daughter Elizabeth (now 22) probably spent several hours a day on my shoulders when she was that age, and it was fun being the Henning family’s unofficial “sherpa” for the afternoon. But I think the Hennings didn’t really start having fun until they were free to explore on their own.

They sure did a lot, anyway. Snow-tubing at TimberLee Hills, visiting the Great Lakes Children’s Museum, and checking out the wide menu of outdoor activities on tap at Grand Traverse Resort & Spa. In case you didn’t know, The Resort has a pretty good variety of things to do on weekends; they’re turned their golf Clubhouse into a Winter Activities Center   featuring cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and ice skating. You can either bring your own gear or rent stuff from them.

Snowmobiling at Grand Traverse Resort

Snowmobiling at Grand Traverse Resort

They’re also doing snowmobile rides, thanks to the good folks at Blue Sky Rentals, dogsled rides through Wiggi’s Mountainside Huskies, bonfires with s’mores and a pretty decent selection of kids activities, from a snowman-building contest and snow-castle construction project to s’mores and campfire games with their winter mascot, Bogey Bear. A pretty good introduction to winter for folks who aren’t really sure how their kids are going to react to all that snow!

I did take one more ski trip on my own over the weekend, around the big loop above Old Mission Point, and I’m glad I did. Apart from the usual great views, the snow conditions were wonderful, and I got my first sighting of a snowy owl in several years. These huge birds, big as small dogs, are winter visitors to the area from the Arctic, and I used to see them all the time when the winters were colder. (Perhaps their return is a sign of more normal winters to come.)

Unlike other owls, they hunt quite comfortably in daylight, perching in high trees at the edge of fields and roadways and watching for mice, rabbits and other prey. In spite of their cute appearance, they are pitiless hunters who can swoop down silently from the winter sky to deliver death with beak and talons to any creature foolish enough to poke its head above the snow. This one didn’t consider me worth his attention. All things considered, I’m cool with that….

Monday’s weather is rainy and messy. I’m pretty confident it’ll get cold again soon, thanks to my owl friend, but I hope it gets back to straight-up winter weather before tomorrow!

Cross-country Skiing at Grand Traverse Resort

Cross-country Skiing at Grand Traverse Resort

One Response to ““Sherpa Mike” Meets a Snowy Owl”

  1. Heather says:

    I read that the lemming population had decreased dramatically (as happens occasionally) and so the snowy owls are down here to hunt. With luck you’ll see more!

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What a Weekend! A Day in the Kayak, a Day on the Skis!

January 16th, 2012
Heading off toward Leffingwell Point on Saturday

Heading off toward Leffingwell Point on Saturday

By MIKE NORTON

After weeks of unseasonably warm and snow-free weather, Traverse City is finally getting some winter - and what a welcome surprise for those of us who love the outdoors!

Saturday was such a splendid, cold and sunny day that I decided to get the kayak out and do some touring on East Grand Traverse Bay. It turned out to be a great decision; it was the perfect weather for a scenic tour along the high bluffs on the east side of the Old Mission Peninsula. The water was as clear as glass, the cedars and firs on shore were frosted with cotton-candy snow, the boulders in the shallows were glazed with a thick coat of ice, and there were birds (including eagles) swooping all over the place.

We’ve never been shy about kayaking the Bay in winter. After all, Eskimos invented these cozy little boats for exactly these conditions. I prefer to go out early in the season before the ice starts to build up, when you can still find sandy beaches. The secret is to dress warmly, stay as dry as possible (using a good waterproof skirt and neoprene gloves) avoid rough water and stay fairly close to shore. And make sure you have that personal flotation device handy!

Believe me, winter kayaking is a treat - especially on open water. There’s a primeval feeling about steering among the icy rocks as the water churns to a slushy consistency around you, feeling the sun warming your back and counting to see how many seconds it takes for the wind to freeze the droplets on your paddle. I had Vaughn Williams’ Sinfonia Antarctica playing on the iPod for an appropriately chilly soundtrack, and it was perfect.

On  Sunday it seemed like a good idea to strap on the cross-country skis and check out the trail system was doing at the Old Mission Point Park. This huge upland plateau near the top of the Old Mission Peninsula belongs to the State of Michigan, but is operated by Peninsula Township and adjoins the township’s own Lighthouse Park - combined, they have over 700 acres of woods, meadows and shoreline and 12 miles of trails.

Winter on the Wetlands Boardwalks at Grass River

Winter on the Wetlands Boardwalks at Grass River

The skiing was surprisingly good, even though the snow was still a bit thin in spots, but I quickly realized that I’ve let myself get out of shape this year. Hitting the exercise bike is really no substitute for getting out into the back country and herringboning up a few hills. I think it’s time to start stashing the skis in the back of the car again!

There’s another excellent outdoor event coming up this coming weekend at another of my favorite places, the Grass River Natural Area between Alden and Bellaire. I like Grass River almost any time of year, but in winter its thick cover of evergreens makes it the perfect place to explore on skis or snowshoes. Saturday is their annual Grass River Shiver Snowshoe Race and Winterfest..

First the race: there are 5K and 10K courses, and prizes will be awarded for the fastest male and females runner in each. Registration is $15 in advance or $20 on the day of the race. (Racers 12 and under are free, and there’s also a free “family run.”) You don’t even have to have your own snowshoes - there’ll be someone on hand from Brick Wheels, ready to rent shoes to anyone who needs them.

Then, the festival: Winterfest, which starts around 11 a.m., is a free family event with games and crafts that lasts until 3 p.m. The highlight? A soup tasting featuring homemade soups from the Alden Bar, Blue Pelican, Java Jones, the Lunch Box, Shanty Creek, Short’s Brewing, Shirley’s Cafe and the Wild Onion.

To register for the race on-line, go to www.grassriver.org or call the Grass River office at (231) 533-8314.

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The Inconstant Snow… Maybe it’s Time for a Drink and Some Chili

January 9th, 2012

Good old chickadee: A More Faithful Winter Friend than this Darn Snow!END

Good old chickadee: A More Faithful Winter Friend than this Darn Snow!

By MIKE NORTON

My wife Karen and I are of two different minds when it comes to snow. She approaches the subject as a motorist; I approach it as a frustrated outdoorsman.

Needless to say, the two of us have very differently reactions to this on-again, off-again winter we’ve been having. She’d be content never to see another snowflake until next winter, while I’m scanning the weather reports looking for signs that we’ll get a nice big lake-effect blizzard to put some decent base on the ground. As it is, things are great over at ski resorts like Shanty Creek, where the cold temperatures have allowed them to make enough snow to open almost all of their runs, but down here along the coast it seems to melt away as soon as it falls.

Things are looking tempting toward the end of this week, so I’m hopeful about the coming weekend. (Ever the optimist, me!) But even if it’s too warm to strap on the snowshoes, there are ways to entertain oneself - most of which involve matters of food and drink.

On Saturday, for instance, the Downtown Traverse City Association will be holding its 17th annual Downtown Chili Cook-Off, where chefs from local restaurants serve up savory helpings of chili from their own secret recipes as they compete in eight different categories (one- and three-alarm chili, white chili, vegetarian chili, no-bean chili, seafood chili and ethnic chili) as well as the coveted People’s Choice Award. Hold it a minute - isn’t chili ethnic by its very nature?

A Sampling from the Chili Cook-Off

A Sampling from the Chili Cook-Off

There are a lot of chili cook-offs going on this time of year, since chili makes the perfect winter warm-up, but the Traverse City one is a biggie. Over 1,000 people show up each January at the Park Place Dome to sample the various chilis and vote for their favorites. The Cook-Off will be held from 11:00 a.m. to 3 p.m., and all proceeds from the event help support such popular free downtown events as Friday Night Live, and the Halloween Walk throughout the year.  For more information call (231) 922-2050 or visit www.downtowntc.com.

And even though cold-weather experts are always warning us that alcoholic beverages don’t really warm you up, there’s something about the red-cheeked flush and cheerful bonhomie of a shared snort among friends that perks up the dreariest day. Out in my neck of the woods, the Wineries of Old Mission Peninsula and some of our restaurants and other businesses are once again putting on their annual Winter Warm Up. Guests who show up at any of the OMP wineries on Saturday can purchase a souvenir mug (it costs ten bucks) that serves as your “ticket” for the rest of the day for yummy warm comfort food and drinks at the wineries and special promotions at participating restaurants. Great treatment for those winter blues! If you want to learn more call 231-223-9303 or visit www.wineriesofoldmission.com

Winter in the Chateau Chantal Vineyard on Old Mission

Winter in the Chateau Chantal Vineyard on Old Mission

By the way, I just read an awesome review of the Old Mission Peninsula wine country by Linda Murphy on WineReviewOnline.com She says Old Mission is the single wine region that excites her the most right now. “The wine quality is superb, the cold-climate wine styles cannot be produced on the West Coast, and a tight-knit band of seven producers have been positively proactive in marketing OMP in states afar,” she says. Check it out!

Oh, and if you’re more of a beer-and-ale person, Shanty Creek Resorts has got the perfect event going on both Saturday and Sunday. It’s their Fourth Annual Beer and Boards Festival at Schuss Mountain, where you can combine a day on the slopes with an après-ski featuring some of Michigan’s best known master brewers including New Holland, Bell’s, Right Brain, Arcadia, Mount Pleasant Brewing, and more –  including, of course, the brewery at the boom of the ski hill, Shorts Brewing.

And, oh, if you know the snow dance, START DANCING ALREADY!

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It’s 2012? Well, Let’s Get Outside and Enjoy Some WINTER!

January 2nd, 2012
Silly hat, happy snowshoer -- at the Pelizzari Natural Area.

Silly hat, happy snowshoer -- at the Pelizzari Natural Area.

By MIKE NORTON

Winter and I were not always friends.

I grew up in the city, where this time of year meant dark gray skies, dirty gray slush, icy sidewalks and wet feet. Skiing was something rich people did. Snowshoes were for Eskimos. As soon as I could get away from it, I did - first to Florida and then to California. How could I ever have foreseen how much I’d come to love the winter season once I moved to Traverse City?

Here, winter is a different creature entirely.  Maybe it’s this rolling, glacier-carved terrain with all its wide vistas and high lookouts; maybe it’s the predominance of pine, spruce, hemlock and fir (so much prettier in winter than those scraggly hardwoods). Or maybe it’s just that rural settings are better suited to winter than cityscapes.

The secret, of course, is that you have to embrace winter in all its chilly wonder - and although some people can do this while looking out the window, I find I just have to get outdoors and do something. Doesn’t matter what, really — cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, kayaking (until the lake freezes) or just tramping around in the woods.

And here’s the payoff: to come around a corner on the trail and see a herd of deer raise their heads, steam snorting from their noses as they look at you and silently bound off into the trees. To stand in the moonlight in a forest clearing as a fine dusting of diamond-bright powder sifts through the branches around you. To emerge from the woods onto a high bluff at Sleeping Bear, the broad blue sweep of Lake Michigan below you like a giant polished turquoise, and feel as though you’re the first (or last) person on Earth.

Speaking from personal experience, I know that winter-sports newbies can sometimes be discouraged by all the unfamiliar gear, terminology and techniques they’re confronted with. But really, it’s a lot easier and a lot less expensive than you think. And fortunately, there are all kinds of people and organizations here in the Traverse City area who are eager to help you get into your winter groove.

This Saturday for instance, the folks from the Vasa Ski Club, Traverse Trails and Brick Wheels are holding their annual Winter Trails Day at Timber Ridge Resort.  Winter Trails Day is a nationwide event that offers children and adults new to snow sports the chance to try snowshoeing and cross-country skiing free. From 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., they’ll be providing free ski lessons, free demos and free use of snowshoes and skis (both classic and skate styles). (You do have to register ahead of time, so there’ll be enough equipment to go around, but you can do it on line at www.traversetrails.org)

Another wonderful program starts this week at Shanty Creek Resorts and other Michigan ski areas. It’s called Discover Michigan Skiing & Snowboarding, and it’s being sponsored by the Michigan Snowsports Industries Association. All through January (Monday through Friday at 1:30 p.m. at Schuss Mountain and on Saturdays and Sundays at Summit Mountain) novice skiers and snowboarders can receive lessons, lift tickets and equipment for a low fee of $30 for skiers and $40 for snowboarders.

Downhilling at Shanty Creek's Schuss Mountain

Downhilling at Shanty Creek's Schuss Mountain

Speaking of Shanty Creek, this is college week, when college students can qualify for big savings simply by flashing their student ID cards. And on Saturday, Shanty brings back one of its strangest retro traditions - the Sardine Special, where you’re encouraged to jam as many people as possible into your car for a flat lift-ticket fee of $100 per carload all day at Schuss Mountain.

If you’d rather improve your knowledge of winter wildlife, the Boardman River Nature Center is putting on a very different kind of outdoor experience on Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. It’s called Snowbird Bingo. Here’s how it works: you stop by the Nature Center on Cass Road and pick up a Bird Hike Bingo card, then head out to the nearby hiking trail. As you hike, mark off all of the birds you see - only birds that winter in Northern Michigan are in the game - and if you get BINGO, bring your card back to the Nature Center for a prize.

(By the way, if you haven’t been to the Nature Center yet, you’re missing a splendid way to learn about the amazing natural wonders in our own backyard, no matter what time of year it is!)

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The Big Cherry Falls on Saturday Night!

December 26th, 2011
A Scene from Last Year's Cherry-T Ball Drop

A Scene from Last Year's Cherry-T Ball Drop

By MIKE NORTON

I hope your weekend was a wonderful one. I know ours was — Christmas Eve mass down the road at St. Joseph’s and a sweet, quiet day together at the Norton house in Old Mission. Except that I’m really going to have to go on a diet now!

This coming Saturday is New Year’s Eve, of course - and an opportunity for even more fun and excitement in downtown Traverse City.  One of the things I truly love about our spirited little town is how eagerly folks here embrace new ideas for getting together and having a good time. A good example of this is the New Year’s Eve Cherry-T Ball Drop that’s held each Dec. 31 on Front Street near Cass.

Two years ago, a group of local residents decided to create a high-energy, family-friendly, New Year’s Eve celebration that would benefit downtown businesses and local food banks. The plan: to transform downtown Traverse City into a miniature Times Square where folks could mill around, listen to music and socialize while they waited for the New Year to arrive. And since TC is the Cherry Capital of the World, the countdown to midnight would be accompanied by the lowering of an enormous illuminated cherry.

Sometimes I’m a little dense, so at first I didn’t understand why it was called a “Cherry-T Ball.” (I thought it might have something to do with the tee-ball games my kids used to play.) It’s lone of those clever play-on-words things: Cherry-T is supposed to sound like “charity,” because a great side benefit of this whole thing is that the only admission charge you pay is some nonperishable food goods or hygiene items to be donated to local food pantries. They call this “partying with a purpose,” and it’s been hugely successful. Last year’s event attracted 5,000 to 8,000 participants and brought in enough food to provide 4,400 meals.

When it was discovered early this year, that several thousand dollars had been embezzled from the organization, folks were wondering if the Drop was going to take place at all. Fortunately, the culprit was caught, the money was returned, and this year’s event looks like it’s going to be bigger and better than ever. In addition to the descent of the Big Cherry, there’ll be a DJ with live music, a U.S. Coast Guard helicopter fly-over, “bigger and better fireworks,” and several yet-undisclosed surprises.

Like many of the best events around here, the Cherry-T Ball Drop wasn’t designed specifically to separate tourists from their money, but simply to provide an opportunity for everyone, locals and visitors alike, to enjoy the experience of greeting the New Year together.

That doesn’t mean that local restaurants, bars and hotels aren’t enjoying a little uptick in business as a result of the Drop. Since open containers of alcoholic beverages aren’t allowed on the street, nearby taverns are happy to provide a warm place for participants to do a little quaffing, restaurants like Red Ginger are throwing special parties, local stores are staying open later (the folks at KidzArt over on State Street are even providing a place where kids can make their own hats and noisemakers ahead of time) and several hotels are advertising their proximity to the party site to visitors who’ve heard about it and want to get in on the fun.

Want to find out more? Well, for some reason the Cherry-T web site has been down lately, but they’ve got a nice Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/CherryT-Ball-Drop-New-Years-Eve-Downtown-Traverse-City/195942239217

One Response to “The Big Cherry Falls on Saturday Night!”

  1. Neala says:

    I love the idea of a Big Cherry drop for NYE. And, your blog brings back happy memories of visiting Traverse City.

    It’s a great destination.

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Winter is Downhill Ski Season in Traverse City

December 22nd, 2011

Skiing Schuss Mountain at Shanty Creek

Skiing Schuss Mountain at Shanty Creek

By MIKE NORTON

For a while, I didn’t think I was going to see snow this month. But there I was, kayaking out in the middle of East Bay on Saturday afternoon when things started to disappear: first the sunshine, then the horizon, and one by one, each point of land along the shore, all fading to milky white as the advancing flurries swept past them.

This is more like it, I thought as I paddled happily toward the beach. And even though it’s still warm down here around the water, it’s skiing weather in the high country. In Bellaire, just a half-hour’s drive away, Shanty Creek was open for business form the weekend, reporting 40 inches of snow (mostly man-made) at their upper and middle elevations, and 10 inches at the bottom of the slopes.

That’ll do for Ohio businessman Steve Light. For the past 25 years, he’s been bringing his family and friends north each winter to ski at Shanty Creek.

“There are higher mountains, and there are places with more runs, but the overall atmosphere of that area makes it a great place to get away to,” he says. “I can’t tell you how many friends I’ve brought up there, and they all have the same reaction. The overall experience is just hard to beat.”

Steve is a member of the dedicated cadre of downhill enthusiasts who love the gentle glacier-carved terrain of northwestern Michigan, which prides itself on the diversity of its winter experiences, the physical beauty of its surroundings, and its growing reputation as a culinary and cultural hotspot. And in recent years, its relatively moderate winter price structure has made the area around Traverse City even more attractive as a ski destination.

The snowsport superstar of the region is undoubtedly Shanty Creek. A 4,500-acre recreational complex perched above the village of Bellaire, Shanty is the region’s leading full-service winter resort for skiing, tubing and snowboarding. (Ski Magazine rates it the Midwest’s number-one ski destination in value, dining, lodging, weather and après ski activities.)

Sprawling across an undulating plateau in our Chain of Lakes region, Shanty Creek is actually a complex of three interlocking “villages” — Summit, Cedar River, and Schuss — connected by trail systems and serviced by a reliable shuttle system. Its ski areas feature a 450-foot vertical with 53 runs for every ability level.

Founded in the postwar years as an American version of Europe’s classic ski areas, Shanty Creek was purchased in 2006 by Trinidad Resort & Club, which spent $10 million on renovation and redesign work. Ski writer Mike Terrell of onthesnow.com calls Shanty “one of the more unusual snow sports resorts in the Heartland” — a combination of classic and contemporary encased in forested hills with panoramic overlooks of Lake Bellaire and northern Michigan.

“There isn’t another setting quite like it anywhere around the Great Lakes,” Terrell writes.

In recent years the resort has developed an impressive reputation as one of the region’s premiere snowboarding destinations, with four terrain parks and a tubing park, and it is continuing to hone that image with a major renovation and expansion of its Schuss Mountain terrain parks with more than 150 feet of new equipment, including a battleship box, an S-rail, a C-rail and a rainbow rail.

Best of all? The resort offers what it calls “Michigan’s most affordable lift ticket,” the Summit Only package. At just $15 a day, it’s considered one of the best ski values in America, and includes a ski/snowboard rental option for an additional $20 a day.

“People like that option because it’s so affordable,” says Shanty spokeswoman Lindsey Southwell (who just had her first baby, cute little Isaac). “A family of four can ski and get rental equipment for less than $150.”

A number of other ski packages (including a $99 season pass and a $196 family package that includes skiing and lodging for a family of four) are available. To see them and to learn more about the 2011-2012 ski season, call 1-800-678-4111 or check their website at www.shantycreek.com.

Downhilling at Mt. Holiday (Not quite this much snow yet...)

Downhilling at Mt. Holiday (Not quite this much snow yet...)

For winter visitors who prefer to stay closer to Traverse City, two day ski areas – Mt. Holiday and Hickory Hills provide yet another alternative. There’s something quaint about these two ski areas; both are small, intimate places that hearken back to a simpler, friendlier time - and that informal, neighborly atmosphere is another attraction for visitors.

Mt. Holiday is a community-run ski area just east of town with 16 runs, two chairlifts, a tubing run and terrain park, a pleasant day lodge, and awesome views of East Bay. On the other side of the city, Hickory Hills is a small municipal ski area nestled in a deep bowl of tree-topped hills less than five minutes from downtown that offers eight runs served by old-fashioned rope tows.

Relatively small size and lack of name recognition haven’t prevented Mt. Holiday and Hickory Hills from developing a base of loyal fans who’d rather ski there than anyplace else. They’re relatively inexpensive, too; a weekend lift ticket at Mt. Holiday runs $25 for students and $30 for adults; while a weekend pass at Hickory Hills is $15 for children and $17 for adults.

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Walking in a (Snowless) Winter Wonderland

December 12th, 2011

A Hazy December Day at the Clinch Park Marina

A Hazy December Day at the Clinch Park Marina

By MIKE NORTON

It was a beautiful weekend here in Traverse City. Too windy for kayaking, but with enough sunshine to warm the soul and make for some really fine walks along the Bay. I even took my bike out again on Sunday and pedaled around the Old Mission Peninsula a bit.

The only problem, of course, is that it’s mid-December and it’s time to get some snow.  Today it’s in the 40s and there’s a light gray mist over the water - comfortable weather in a sort of melancholy werewolf-on-the-moor way, but not the glittery white wonderland I really want to see. My skis are itching to hit the trails, and I’m sure I’m not the only one who’s getting a little impatient. My philosophy toward winter is simple: get outside and enjoy it, or you’ll go batty.

I know the snow is coming, but the question remains: what’s an increasingly restless outdoorsperson to do until it gets here?

Fortunately, you can always take a walk. You don’t even need any special equipment — just put on mittens and a hat and a warm coat. Until the snow comes, you won’t even need boots. Anyway, here are five winter walks I’ve thought up  for people who want to enjoy the beauties of Traverse City’s “fourth season.” They’re all pretty easy, and don’t require a lot of deep-country slogging, but they’re lovely and interesting — snow or no snow.

Christmas Lights on Front Street at Night

Christmas Lights on Front Street at Night

City Sidewalks, Pretty Sidewalks: Front Street and the Boardman Neighborhood

This “urban walk” is a good introduction to Traverse City’s historic downtown shopping district and one of its oldest residential neighborhoods: the splendid 19th-century homes along tree-lined Washington Street. It’s a particularly fine walk on a calm winter evening, when the holiday lights in the downtown trees and the turn-of-the-century streetlamps along Washington give the night a magical glow.

Directions: Starting at the corner of Union and Front, walk east for four blocks to Wellington Avenue. Turn right and go up two blocks to Washington Street, then go left and stroll as far as you like. (The street with its fine Victorian homes extends for six blocks, past charming F&M Park to Garfield Avenue.) To return, simply cross the street and go back the way you came.

A Stroll Along the Bay: Old Mission Point

At the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula, which separates Grand Traverse Bay into its east and west arms, you can stand precisely halfway between the equator and the North Pole and feel as though you’re in the last place on earth. There’s a cozy 19th-century lighthouse, a picnic area and a series of walking trails that wander through deep evergreen forest, along rock-strewn  beaches and up to a highland plateau where you can look out over the bay to the distant shores beyond.

Directions: Take M-37 (Center Road) north from Traverse City. At its very end is Lighthouse Park, where there’s a parking lot and the trailhead for the lowland Old Mission trails. High country trailheads are located on Murray Road, at the north end of Brinkman, and at the end of Ridgewood Road. Maps are posted at regular intervals on all the trails.

Berries Provide Early Winter Color at Grass River

Berries Provide Early Winter Color at Grass River

A Walk on the Wildlife Side: The Grass River Natural Area

Just minutes from bustling Shanty Creek Resort, there’s a quiet spot where a tiny creek flows into a wide shallow river - and in wintertime this is the perfect place to catch a glimpse of some of our shyest wild creatures: deer, snowshoe hares, fox, coyote and bobcat. The 1,143-acre Grass River Natural Area has a well-developed network of trails, boardwalks and observation platforms where you can watch ducks, swans, owls, eagles and other birds.

Directions: Drive east on M-72 for 10 miles, past Acme and Williamsburg,to the turnoff for Rapid City. Continue through Rapid City and Alden; north of Alden turn right onto Alden Highway and follow it for about three miles. The entrance to the Natural Area is on the left.

Strolling though tall trees at the Seven Bridges

Strolling though tall trees at the Seven Bridges

An Enchanted Forest: The Seven Bridges

About 20 miles east of Traverse City, in the hills of western Kalkaska County, the fast little Rapid River pauses on its way down a steep valley. Here in a forest of quiet cedars the river briefly divides into several branches that go wandering through the trees, crossed by a series of footbridges. It’s an enchanted, intimate place for a walk, and it’s at its very best when there’s a light snow falling.

Directions: Drive east on M-72 past Acme and Williamsburg to Valley Road, about a mile west of Kalkaska. Turn left and follow the road, which winds through a beautiful valley and past scenic Rugg Pond. After three miles, keep an eye open for the Seven Bridges parking area, on the right-hand side of the road. After your walk, continue west on Valley Road to the village of Rapid City or retrace your route to the top of the valley.

Traverse City’s Central Park: The Grand Traverse Commons

Behind the creamy brick castles of the former Traverse City Regional Psychiatric Hospital (now being transformed into the swanky Grand Traverse Commons development) is a network of wonderful public walking trails. Some wander through deep woods and across open meadows; other climb high into the western hills above the city, providing splendid views of the surrounding area.

Directions: There are several trailheads within the Commons campus, but the easiest way to access the trail system is to take Front Street west out of town and follow it uphill. About a half-mile past Cedar Run Road, look for a turn-off on the left; it will lead to a small parking lot and trailhead kiosk.

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Some Historical Gleams for Christmas in Traverse City

December 5th, 2011
The Wellington Inn, all decked out for Christmas

The Wellington Inn, all decked out for Christmas

By MIKE NORTON

In the hectic world of pre-Christmas shopping, this is what they call the home stretch.

Who cares if the big-box stores start trotting out their holiday decorations as soon as Halloween is out of the way? In Traverse City things don’t get rolling until the first weekend in December. They certainly did this past weekend, starting with Friday night’s downtown tree-lighting, carol-singing and the official arrival of Santa. Over in the Village at Grand Traverse Commons, they were busy with holiday illuminations of their own, while the Grand Traverse Lighthouse Museum up at Northport was busy with their annual “Christmas at the Lighthouse” event.

But several of my favorite local Christmas events are still to come. On the next two Sundays (Dec. 11 and 18) the Wellington Inn will be holding its ninth annual “Inn at Christmastime” open house. And if you’ve never had a chance to wander through this beautifully restored 1905 mansion in Traverse City’s historic Boardman Neighborhood, this is the perfect opportunity. Local designers have ‘decked the halls’ with a spectacular display of holiday designs and decorations, and you can tour the entire place - finishing up with complimentary desserts and hot mulled cider in the third floor ballroom.

The Wellington (located at the corner of Washington and Wellington streets, just east of downtown) was the home of lumber baron William Cary Hull, whose Oval Wood Dish Company created the first disposable plates using thin slices of pressed and molded wood. The company later relocated to Tupper Lake, NY where it eventually morphed into a much better-known consumer item (bet you can guess what it was called) but not before Hull built this exquisite home for his family.

In 1999, the Hull House was rescued from several decades of neglect by Barb and Hank Rishel, who sank their savings into a massive restoration and repair effort and opened the place as a bed & breakfast in 2003. Today, fully restored to its original grandeur, the Inn features period antiques throughout its nine guest rooms, dining room, library and living room.

Ever since they opened, the Rishels have held this annual Christmas reception, originally as a fundraiser for the local historical society, on two Sundays before Christmas. Hours at 2-6 p.m. and tickets are $10 at the door. For more information, call the Inn at 231-922-9900 or visit www.WellingtonInn.com.

Speaking of things historical, next week marks the opening of the Annual Festival of Trains at the History Center. Every December, thousands of visitors flock to our former Carnegie Library building on Sixth Street to celebrate model trains of every type, size and description.

A Little Christmas Wonder at the Festival of Trains

A Little Christmas Wonder at the Festival of Trains

Even children who’ve never seen or heard a real train in their lives watch in wide-eyed fascination as these miniature marvels go through their paces, chugging and clattering through elaborate displays that evoke the sights and sounds of a vanished American landscape. But there’s an added nostalgia about model trains that spans the generations — many visitors to the Festival of Trains are adults who want their children and grandchildren to experience a cherished piece of their own childhood memories.

Although northern Michigan hasn’t had regular train service for more than a generation, the railroads are deeply interwoven into the region’s history. Trains hauled lumber from the forests and produce from the farms, and they helped launch the local tourist industry. (In fact, the computer-generated steam locomotive featured in the film “The Polar Express” was modeled on the PM 1225, a real-life engine that ran between Grand Rapids and Traverse City during the 1940s on the long-vanished Pere Marquette Railroad.)

The Michigan Railroad Club expends hundreds of volunteer hours planning and setting-up the exhibit for the 10,000 expected visitors.

“We know how special this event is for the children, and it’s our gift to them”, said Railroad Club president Rick Vandenberg.

This year’s theme is circus trains but, of course, the popular “Thomas the Tank Engine” interactive cab will return to this year’s festival. Also new will be the Choo Choo Café, featuring homemade soups, cappuccinos and hot chocolate. A swap meet for model engines, cars and accessories will be open to the public on Dec. 17-18. Three trains will be raffled and the “Conductor’s gift shop” features holiday and railroad themed gifts for the entire family.

The Festival of Trains is a major fundraiser for the History Center of Traverse City, which is a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving, promoting, and presenting the history of the Grand Traverse region. Admission is $5 per adult and $4 for youth & seniors; children 3 and under are free. A family season pass is available at $30 for unlimited visits to the festival.

The Festival of Trains is held Monday through Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm and Sundays from noon to 4 pm.(On Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day, the trains run from 10 am to 4 pm. The festival is closed Christmas Day.) Want more info? Call them at 231-995-0313 or go to www.festivaloftrains.org.

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Learning to Love this “In-Between” Season

November 28th, 2011
Yep, I still get the kayak out in November, December, January...

Yep, I still get the kayak out in November, December, January...

By MIKE NORTON

Local wits like to say that if you don’t like the weather in Traverse City, all you have to do is wait five minutes. This past Thanksgiving weekend was certainly a good illustration of that.

Thankful is what we were at the Norton house on Thursday, when it was warm and clear enough to finally get all the oak leaves raked off the yard (which is how we worked off our turkey and dressing!) And on Friday it was so warm that I got the bicycle out of the garage for one more lovely 20-miler along East Bay. But Saturday and Sunday were days best spent by the fireplace, reading new books and enjoying each other’s company. I took a couple of long walks along the shore, watching the swans and a couple of eagles, but there weren’t many other folks out on the beach.

I moved to Traverse City because I love being outdoors, and I still do. In the summer, you’ll find me walking this town’s beautiful beaches, kayaking on Grand Traverse Bay or hiking through the Pere Marquette State Forest. In winter, I’ll be out on my skis at Old Mission Point or snowshoeing around the Boardman Valley.

But there’s one time of year that I’m only beginning to appreciate, and that’s the season we’re going through right now - these six to eight weeks between the end of fall color season and the start of snowsport season. It’s too cold for swimming, too early for sledding. Is it late autumn or early winter? And what in the world can you do?

Plenty, as it turns out. Over time, I’ve learned to appreciate and even welcome this odd “in-between” season - especially here in Traverse City, where it’s actually become one of my favorite times of year. It’s a quieter, friendlier time, I think, when the true flavor of this lovely place begins to re-emerge after months of overstimulation.

Once October ends, there’s a sudden shift in the rhythm of life in Traverse City. The hectic crowds of summer and fall dwindle to a more manageable level, even on weekends. Suddenly you’re not waiting in line to get a table at a restaurant. Suddenly, hotel rates are much lower, store clerks are much more relaxed, and everybody seems much happier to see you.

The Traverse City area has over 4,000 guest rooms and a wide range of choices, from large full-service resorts to cozy family-operated motels, from condominiums to B&Bs. There are unique winery chateaux, rustic Up North cabins, laid-back beach resorts and an elegant casino hotel. And it all seems just a little bit more relaxed this time of year.

Part of the appeal, I admit, is that there are fewer kids around. I love youngsters (really I do!) but there are some things that just aren’t much fun when you have to share them with the younger set. Once the little ones are safely back in school, Traverse City becomes a perfect setting for adults who want to slip away for a little fun of their own, whether that’s a romantic weekend, a holiday shopping trip, or a girlfriends getaway.

The truth is, I’ve learned to enjoy some of the indoor pleasures of this season. That isn’t hard in a place like Traverse City, which keeps picking up national and international praise for the quality of its restaurants and its outstanding wines. Dining out is much more pleasant when you can do it without feeling crowded or rushed  –  and I always try to get a table near the fireplace, just to enjoy the cozy snap and crackle of a real fire.

Karen and friends contemplate microbrews at Mackinaw Brewing Co.

Karen and friends contemplate microbrews at Mackinaw Brewing Co.

On the other hand, “quiet” shouldn’t mean boring — and fortunately, Traverse City isn’t the kind of resort town that shuts down in wintertime. If anything, I think its nightlife actually seems to improve as the weather turns colder — whether that’s a concert at the Interlochen Center for the Arts, some stand-up comedy at the City Opera House, or the bonhomie at one of our local brewpubs.

And shopping? Things are still humming along nicely this time of year in Traverse City’s historic and pedestrian-friendly downtown with its fascinating boutiques, restaurants, coffee shops and galleries, and at the Grand Traverse Commons, a fascinating “village” of shops, eateries and homes in the turreted buildings of our 19th-century mental asylum. This is when all those places start running their holiday specials - and when their owners actually have the time to stand around and chat with you.

Don’t get me wrong - I’m still an outdoorsy guy, and I still prefer to be outside whenever I can. And I’ve learned to enjoy the austere beauty of this season, with its browns and maroons and dark golds framed by the electric-blue water of Lake Michigan and the increasingly dramatic skies of winter. I still like to get the kayak out and paddle across the bay, and I love to hike the deep forests of pine, spruce and hemlock that cover the hills south of town.

But the most fun of all, I think, is being able to combine indoor and outdoor activities by touring Traverse City’s legendary wine country. Many of the 28 wineries on the Old Mission and Leelanau peninsulas are located on high hilltops with wonderful views of the surrounding landscape, and there’s something about that splendid setting that goes particularly well with their crisp fruit-forward wines.

So mark me down as a former skeptic who has mellowed in his opinions about this once-scorned time of year. Here in Traverse City, at least, I don’t think of it as “in-between season” anymore. Now it’s my new “relax-and-unwind season” instead!

A dreamlike "in-between" scene at Old Mission Point

A dreamlike "in-between" scene at Old Mission Point

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It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Mac & Cheese Time!

November 20th, 2011
Serving up Tasty Mac & Cheese at Chateau Chantal

Serving up Tasty Mac & Cheese at Chateau Chantal

By MIKE NORTON

Each November, on the first Saturday after Thanksgiving, lovers of good food and wine flock to the vine-covered slopes of the Old Mission Peninsula for one of the year’s quirkiest and tastiest events .

There, in the cozy tasting rooms of the Peninsula’s seven wineries - 2 Lads, Chateau Chantal, Chateau Grand Traverse, Bowers Harbor Vineyards, Brys Estate, Peninsula Cellars and Black Star Farms/Old Mission — they ease their turkey-sated palates with tall glasses of Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Chardonnay and platters of macaroni and cheese.

That’s right: mac and cheese. That homely staple of family suppers, TV dinners and church potlucks. That icon of bland familiarity. But here at The Great Macaroni & Cheese Bake-Off, the food is anything but humble. Some of the best chefs in the Traverse City area — whose restaurants have been winning raves for their innovative regional cuisine — compete each year to concoct new versions of this traditional comfort food.

Consider for a moment the possibilities of a cheddar-ale mac & cheese. Or one made with, say, walnuts and gorgonzola, or lobster with brie. The cheesy possibilities are almost endless, and competing chefs in past years have blended such concoctions as cavatappi pasta blended with goat cheese and white truffle oil with crumbled biscotti cookies sprinkled over the top, or a Reuben mac with noodles, corned beef, and Thousand Island dressing.

“We call it macaroni and cheese, but it’s really gourmet pasta,” says Liz Berger of Chateau Chantal, one of the five wineries that participate in the annual Bake-Off, held this year on Saturday, Nov. 26. “The idea is a natural, because cheese pairs so nicely with wine.”

The Bake-Off began some years ago when employees of the Peninsula wineries decided it would be a great way to unwind after the Thanksgiving holiday. And if they could promote their wines and raise a little money for some worthy local cause in the process, so much the better. The idea was an instant success.

For years, the vineyards of Old Mission have been producing award-winning Rieslings, Gewurztraminers, Chardonnays, Pinot Grigios, Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Francs whose fresh, crisp taste has demolished snobbish stereotypes about Michigan wine. And as it happens, they go particularly well with rich, creamy dishes like macaroni & cheese.

But visitors to the region are drawn as much by the magnificent setting that surrounds the wineries — the Old Mission Peninsula is a narrow 18-mile ridge of land surrounded by the deep blue waters of Grand Traverse Bay, and it hasn’t known an ugly day since the last glacier rolled out of town 10,000 years ago.

It’s also a great bargain. Admission to the entire event, which lasts from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., is just $40 per person, which gets you a souvenir wine glass and wine/pasta tastings at all seven wineries. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time — and personally, I recommend getting them well ahead of time.

Tickets for the Great Macaroni & Cheese Bake-Off are on sale at http://store.chateauchantal.com/store/product/198/Mac-%26-Cheese-Ticket. For more details, call (231) 933-9787. Details about other wine events can be obtained from the Wineries of Old Mission Peninsula (WOMP). Bon appetit!

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